Howdy! I hopped on 'Booster' this morning to head to work, low-and-behold the "FI" error starts blinking on the instrument cluster. Was riding every day in 2009, but then the weather turned. Bike has been honestly ridden twice since Oct 1st, and goes around the block a few times every couple weeks. No fuel injection mods, no fuel mapper, no exhaust mods - nothing like that. 2005 GSX-R 1000 with about 30k/mi. Should I take it to the stealership to have them check codes, or is there something else I should do first? Thanks for any help.
hmm, interesting. How about you find out what the codes are yourself and refer to a service manual to see what they indicate. Seems easy! On my bike, you go to the odometer, and hit reset for 2 seconds and the FI error code flashes at you. Try that, i'm sure theres service manuals floating around on the interwebs
Thanks guys - I have the table of the FI codes, I just don't own the dongle you jack into the bike to read them. I'll start searching for a "cheat" to read the codes without the gizmo.
It's probably the SET valve in the exhaust collector that's gummed up. Spray a little WD-40 on the pivot and see if that helps. ...and the dongle is just a jumper wire
Jumper wire means (paperclip) LOL. You can put the bike into dealer mode and see what code it is throwing. You can then refer to your manual to find out the problem. If I remember correctly its a plastic connector with 4 wire spots, but only 2 wires are going into it. This connector should be on the left hand side of the bike in / near the passenger seat opening. Get a wire / paperclip and stick it in the two lead holes and then turn your bike to the on position. Your dash cluster should show a code of "cxx" The "X's" being numbers that correspond to the error code. Let us know how it goes!
+1 There are many helpful threads on how to adjust, disable, and remove the set valve at www.gixxer.com.
Motorcycle troubleshooting is a form of problem solving... It is a logical search for the source of a problem so that it can be solved... it ain't about jumping to 10 conclusions at once... always eliminate the battery first... because you find that 90% of the time it proves to be the weakest link of your bike... and so much depends on correct voltage that it's pays to have your battery tended to a charger at all times... Start with the battery for it's the weakest link in the whole system... To determine the condition of an Maintenance Free battery give it a refreshing charge... wait 30 minutes... measure terminal voltage... 12.8 or higher is a good battery... 12.0 to 12.8 is a insufficient charge... recharge... 12.0 or lower... battery unserviceable...
Well, as it turns out the FI error did NOT display on the ride home from work. Given the comments by Logan, Stiz, and BLS -- Further reflection has me 'jumping to the conclusion' that it very well could have been the battery... There was enough juice to kick over the engine yesterday morning but it was givin' her all she's got captain. So, if there wasn't enough leftover gumption to fully actuate the valve on startup, I could imagine that would easily be the source of the fault signal. Hmmm. Well, I do appreciate the information everyone. Thanks again. I'll update this thread if the issue resurfaces.
+1 on the BT +1 THE BATTERY TENDER Cody. With all the electrical devices on the newer bikes a strong battery is a must. Also just because the bike didn't code on the way home don't wait to put a charger on the battery. Riding partially discharged the alternator and battery are both stressed and the battery will likely fail soon. Keep your battery charged to at least 12.5V to prevent problems. Since you can get a real Battery Tender at Walmart cheap, GET ONE. You bike will thank you for it. Bill